Color in the Face of Darkness: Katarina Gaj

Photographer Katarina Gaj is one of my latest discoveries since I saw her featured in the exhibition A Glimpse at Photo Vogue - 101 Photographers/101 Pictures at the Carla Sozzani gallery nestled within 10 Corso Como's collection of style-conscious endeavors, including a cafe and a boutique worthy of one's most elaborate fashion daydreams.

The past two years of my growth and maturation in creative escapades have found an unwavering admiration for artistic photography, most passionately the field of fashion photography. While the categorization will evoke for most the editorial pages of Vogue, I've learned that this form of photography can encompass a greater variety of imagery that falls under the fashion definition but speaks to something deeper than the garments on a model's back.

Enter Katarina, whose sole work in the show moved me instantly upon a fleeting glance.

To me, her photography, though included in the fashion photography realm, is not so much about the clothing. The clothing is an accessory to a deeper story about identity. We see obscure female figures lakeside and we do not know anything about them; it is the fashion that reveals and simultaneously masks.

Color in the following two photographs I have selected is integral to the role of fashion in each photograph. It is a depiction of color in the face of darkness, where backdrops are dismal and daunting yet the painted human forms become beacons of light on the murky shore. There is an innocence betrayed by expression and pose that is recovered in vivid coloring. Hue has an almost savior-like quality.

It is the title of the first selection that speaks to this most: feel pure. Color is the rescuer and it returns to us a purity that otherwise may have felt lost.

feel pure

D Minor

The Katarina Gaj photographs speak to a more everyday approach to color in its role to transform. The gloom of our surroundings must not deter from our inner strength. Color has the ability to ensure strength, to accentuate optimism in an atmosphere that is wholly discouraging.

Even in times of hardship, we can persevere by flaunting a confidence and personality that we may not yet have a grasp on, but by identifying with it, there is hope that it reaches every part of us.
These models use color as a mechanism, because they know the truth behind its ability to empower.

Here's to Gaj and hopes that we will see much more work from her talented eye in times to come.

Photographs via Flickr

Images belong to Katarina Gaj

Playing Matchmaker

One of the things I noticed in my people-watching escapades in Italian cities was a burgeoning antithesis to the mixed prints trend. Italians were going against the mold by matching their garments and accessories together for a look that radiated eclecticism with its striking similarities rather than focusing on the clash of differences.
Whether by combining related prints or pieces of the same hue, playing matchmaker takes a lot of confidence. This is a boldness in an exciting new form and it's certainly a risk - not so much for the effortlessly chic crowd as the avant-garde creative types.

The three model outfits I've created below are inspired by some outfits I saw walking the streets of Italy as well as my own brainstorming and ideas.

My rule of thumb is that when matching pieces, make sure to maintain one subtle difference. Perhaps ironic, but adhering to this principle ensures that your look's multidimensionality. As you'll see in my creations, each match uses slightly different hues or prints of different scales, injecting your look with more depth and personality.

Fashion cannot be for the faint of heart or there is no fun. Everyone needs excitement.

Preen top and skirt, Modcloth clutch, Warehouse ring, Vionnet slingback heels.

Steven Alan dress, Kenneth Jay Lane earrings, Marc by Marc Jacobs crossbody bag, Vince Camuto sandals.

Marni top, pants, and shoes; Astley Clarke ring; Michael Kors bag.

Are you willing to wear a matching outfit? How would you do it?

Nova Chiu

I have Papercut Magazine's Mad About Hue editorial to thank for my recent discovery of emerging fashion label Nova Chiu.

The eponymous designer's multitude of fashion experiences began primarily with her studies at the Camberwell College of Art and Design in 2006. The following year marked her enrollment at the London College of Fashion for a BA in Fashion Design Technology Surface Textiles. After internships with prestigious labels Matthew Williamson and Richard Nicoll, Nova's education went on hiatus due to financial constraints and she went to New York City to intern with Anna Sui and then fashion production company K&G Fashion. In 2010, Nova returned to London to finish her studies.

With the help of new boyfriend Jeff Archer (later taking on the additional role of business partner), Nova created her graduate collection: Shangri-Ladida, which was crowned Collection of the Year.

The Nova Chiu label grew from Shangri-Ladida and debuted at London Fashion Week for the Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 season under the wing of Vauxhall Fashion Scouts' Ones to Watch.

Nova Chiu incorporates a playful juxtaposition of materials and textures, exotic colors and prints for an avant-garde look that takes on an unparalleled exoticism.

Silhouettes are simple and loosely defined to instead spotlight subtler details that mesh together in garments and accessories that tell individual, multilayered stories.

Each creation is distinctly modern but does not fear to stir up a vintage feel.

Images from the Nova Chiu website

The consistent aesthetic of Nova's work incites much enthusiasm about the ways in which the label will evolve over the span of future collections. She will have to stay loyal to the signature she has introduced for herself yet find ways to reinterpret this foundation for each subsequent season. I have no doubt that she has the ability to take on such a challenge that any designer must face.

Lust List: Sweet Structure

At this point in my shopping expeditions, I consider the ability of my would-be purchase to survive the hefty transition period between summer and fall. Although I don't quite have my sights set on the upcoming season, I certainly don't want to obtain a new ware that can only last me until September or so, when I'll have to wait until summer rolls around again to revive said buy.

I have learned a lot about my clothing collection after my recent closet cleaning, including the fact that basically everything I own is flowing and feminine.
I have no problem with the latter - my style is admittedly ultra-femme with the occasional appearance of menswear-inspired oxfords.
Yet sometimes it's good to have some structure: garments that maintain a defined shape, which can always be depended on for a specific look that never falters in flattery.

Below is a colorful collage of my favorite structured frocks. They are bright and girly, but the timeless silhouettes can certainly last into the autumn with a great pair of tights.

Clockwise (from left): Carven cut-out dress (on model), Topshop dress, Alice + Olivia peplum waist dress, Emilio Pucci dress with ruffled trim, Versus cut-out mini dress, Lanvin techno-satin cocktail dress, Mary Katrantzou fish print bustier dress.

Are you already thinking about the changeover into fall garb? What's on your current summer wishlist right now?
Let me know with a comment!

Mad About Hue

I couldn't help but want to share this editorial from Papercut, a digital magazine with a mission to "highlight the artistic, political and cultural landscape of the emerging fashion community." [via Papercut Magazine]
I have known about Papercut for some time now, and I have always been impressed by their burgeoning collection of fashion editorials featuring a new generation of fashion names. Outsiders not affiliated with the magazine in any way are able to submit their own editorials under the condition that they are original content and contain only independent designers and emerging labels. Certainly a different perspective on the classic fashion editorial, dominated by a wealth of mainstream names that can be found to dwell on Madison Avenue.

The editorial Mad About Hue takes this perspective and meshes it with the world of colorful fashion, highlighting lesser-known names such as Basso & Brooke, Nova Chiu, and Jayne Pierson.
Whereas newsstand glossies often feature high-fashion looks each focused around one designer, Papercut takes pride in the freedom to mix and match. The result is beautifully eclectic and restores fashion to a multi-dimensional standpoint.

Louise Amstrup top, Nova Chiu skirt, rings by Kat and Bee.

Left: Malene Oddershede Bach jacket, top stylist's own, Taka Naka trousers, Maria Piana necklace.
Right: Basso & Brooke dress, Emilio Cavillini leggings, Peter Lang earrings, shoes customized by stylist.

Left: Taka Naka shirt, Eudon Choi vest, Jayne Pierson trousers, Finsk for Louise Amstrup wedges, Dominique Lucas ring.
Right: Uncredited.

Left: Jayne Pierson jacket, Shanghai Tang shirt, Taka Naka skirt, Pyrrha necklace.
Right: Nova Chiu dress, Sarah Baadarani dress (worn underneath).

Photography by Shuhei Shine

Make-up by Yae Seno

Hair by Atsushi Takita

Styling by Alexandra Saushkina

Modelling by Aiste (Storm)

All editorial images from Papercut Magazine 

(papercutmag.com)

The haven of avant-garde editorials reminds me why I so dearly want to join the fashion industry. The expressive fabric designs combine with beauty and photography for a multimedia art that can have no rival.

It is reality captured in image, inspiration captured in the pairings of garments. Not superficiality, but an art we strive to perfect.

Oh, fashion magazines, do not elude me!

Cassey Gan

I meddled with fashion design for a brief portion of my life. The era spanned a few years starting in the pre-teen ages and mostly consisted of rapid sketching in the form of schooltime doodles, light penciled strokes against my notebooks' lined paper, or on formal sketchpads and tracing paper as part of the curriculum for a weekend class at FIT.

There was the occasional sewing lesson. One summer, I attempted to summon my inner design prodigy and tackled a sewing machine for the first time. I succeeded in producing a rather ugly high-waisted skirt much too small for my body and a messily hemmed cardigan of sorts. I had discovered, it seemed, that I was devoid of the talent I had hoped to have.
Now, I obviously quit much too quickly. If I had persevered, it may have been a much different story, but I found little joy in the mechanisms of creating garments.

It is fascinating for me now to see exotic designs concocted independently. I deeply respect artists who are able to use their hands for the creations of haute couture masterpieces and the likes.
In a similar category, I find graduate collections of design school attendees particularly fascinating. Case in point, the London College of Fashion. The school presents a quite nifty feature that allows the humble viewer to gain insight into the entire process of creating a collection. One isn't simply admiring the clothes, but rather browsing final results and then exploring the methodology necessary to reach them.


Cassey Gan graduated from the London College of Fashion this past year with a BA (Hons) in Fashion Design Technology, a study that aims students to "understand every aspect of a garment through both the creative detail in the design and the technical skills used in production" [via London College of Fashion website]. Certainly not a lightweight task.


Gan's graduate collection highlights the exoticism of color juxtaposed with the use of avant-garde material bamboo. Creativity is favored over luxury in piling together layers of vivid hues and loose separates.

It is evident that Gan's strength is in color: unique color palettes showcase a sophisticated artistic eye.

Large camouflage prints weren't always ideally placed, and I felt as if a more fitting print could have been chosen. The prints seemed to serve little purpose, not quite adding substantial detail but not taking much away. Yet the use of color was particularly enjoyable.

Fabrics & Colors

Design Development

Final Collection

All images are via Showtime / London College of Fashion (showtime.arts.ac.uk).

Responses and reactions are welcome in the comments section below.

Walking On Sunshine (Color Spotlight: Yellow)

There are several colors that I never wear. It isn't for a particular reason rather I instinctively find myself drawn to specific hues and thus avoiding others. I like most colors yet some need time to grow on me.

One such example is yellow. For a long time I didn't like yellow, but recently I find myself drawn to it. There is something so appealing about its brightness, its organic optimism and radiance. Certainly it isn't a shade for everyone: yellow asks for a lot of attention and it can be tricky to style. But I feel that it's worthwhile to experiment with the unfamiliar. In this case, it's a new color to wear.

I tried on a sunshine yellow Tibi skort yesterday - to my avail it wasn't flattering on my shape - and it made me think about the colors devoid from my wardrobe. Now that I've attained closet harmony with a massive cleansing, I'm ready for more. Yellow is a color that will be going on my list.

Skin tone is extremely important when considering yellow garments and accessories. Very dark skin has the advantage with this hue: every shade of yellow looks stunning. For lighter skin tones, try a deeper yellow so as to not be washed out. (Canary yellow is a flattering pick.)

Yellow can be intimidating - I think it is! - but one can start small or go for maximum brightness. Take a look at my suggestions.

Clockwise, from top left: Equipment silk playsuit, Miguel Ases earrings, MaxMara skinny belt, Nonoo shorts, Swash scarf, Jean Paul Gaultier mini umbrella, Preen printed top, Jimmy Choo sandals, KENZO stretch-cotton skirt, Brahmin tablet clutch, Sam Edelman sandals.

Clockwise, from top left: Mulberry top and shorts, Armand Diradourian scarf, Alexander Wang silk tank, Ice-Watch watch, Current/Elliott jeans, Tara Matthews bikini, Mulberry bag, Alice + Olivia dress, Calypso St. Barth silk top, Madewell flats, ASOS bucket tote, Yummi glass earrings.

What are some colors you're experimenting with? Do you wear yellow; are you going to give it a try?
Leave a comment below with your thoughts.

Colorful Highlights from Berlin Fashion Week

Berlin Fashion Week is always one to look forward to for the fleeting taste of the avant-garde it has to offer. It could be said that the Spring/Summer 2013 collections shown this past week were toned down. Designers across the board played against the natural silhouette of the body for sleek ready-to-wear looks, many of which could have walked right off of the runway into the everyday bustle.

That is not to say that Berlin was lacking in creativity. The face and the head were integral in many shows, such as with the Lena Hoschek models' skull-like face paint and flower headpieces that evoked a Mexican Day of the Dead celebration.

There was a tension between color and neutrals: bold hues are often a defining characteristic of the spring season, but many designers chose to forgo the trait completely. Those who did incorporate color opted for solid hues for instant impact.

Bright prints were scarce and were in many cases shoved into the background in favor of subtle, shapely details crafted to enhance tailored silhouettes.

Laurèl S/S 2013

Lena Hoschek S/S 2013

Anja Gockel S/S 2013

Frida Weyer S/S 2013

Berlin Fashion Week receives much less attention than other contenders like New York and Paris, most likely because the majority of the names presenting are unfamiliar to us.
Yet Berlin, like many other cities that are rarely the focus in the eyes of industry insiders, holds a promising population of emerging talent that will in all likelihood help to form the next generation of fashion influencers.

Photos and videos from the Berlin Fashion Week shows can be found online right here.
Let me know if you have any favorites or suspicions about Berlin's next big design star(s).

I'll Have What She's Wearing

Going to an office regularly for the first time in my life, I've been taking many cues from street style and  posts from the Internet's favorite style bloggers. Each outfit has its own specific outline, which enables the onlooker to take inspiration from a specific look. In turn, this creates a result that looks nothing like its original, except in that it shares a foundational style blueprint.

I've created an example that will undoubtedly serve me well and possibly provide you with ideas to save you from the inevitable creativity slump that hits every so often.
The outfit I'm inspired by is from a personal style blog called Wendy's Lookbook, although I actually found the following image via Tumblr.

Topshop blazer and high-waisted shorts, Gryphon tank top, Aldo stilettos, Nixon watch.

There are a few key points that must be recognized.
My version focuses on the pairing of a white blazer with printed shorts. These Topshop shorts have little in common with their predecessor. The overall idea is that the shorts are colorful and printed; the top is a solid color that can be found within the print below it. Wendy based her outfit off of a yellow hue, whereas mine uses blue. The white blazer works in both instances because the prints of the shorts are set against a white background.
The gold watch is transfered over to my outfit in the form of a more affordable version.
Finally, heels in a contrasting color add the extra pop the outfit needs.

Remember to take your inspiration in healthy doses and let your creativity reign.

Karishma Shahani

Designer Karishma Shahani's eponymous fashion line has a little bit of everything. The label began with Karishma's graduation from the London College of Fashion in 2010 and is based in Pune, India (also the country of its production). Each design draws on the multi-layered culture of its home: contrast between splendor and poverty, city and jungle; the vibrancy of thousands of religions and millions of gods. There is certainly a lot to work with, but Karishma avoids specificity in favor of channeling the multitude of definitions that India encompasses.
The idea of layering is tangible in each look but also lends itself to the depth of the designs. Garments are unconventional yet incorporate cultural tradition with flowing pleats, lightweight fabric, and a palette of bright hues. Structure makes an appearance alongside the experimental: thin fabric flowers draped around the neck of a loosely tailored blazer, or a colorful reef lining the bottom of a cylindrical buckled bag of sorts.
But take each look apart, separating the pieces from their mates, and it is clear that Karishma has injected each creation with a modernity that allows the clothing to stray from its initial abstract feel in favor of creating wearable versatility that does not lose sight of its unusual roots.

The following images are the "Yatra" collection, which is in fact from S/S 2011 but is a wonderful portrayal of Karishma's aesthetic and ability.

All images from Showtime - London College of Fashion

(showtime.arts.ac.uk)

Karishma Shahani creates her collections by enlisting the help of artisans, promoting fair trade and the importance of craftsmanship as beginning at the core: with those who know it best. The line stands for the entirety of making a product, from the beading to the dyeing to the weaving.

Although the line is in an emerging state and rarely known here in America, hopefully the continuation of ingenious experimentalism inspired by the exotic multi-dimensional Indian culture will help Karishma's foray into fashion thrive and evolve.

The label's website is under construction at this time but can be found here.

Ruby Tuesday

Tomorrow is the 4th of July, known as Independence Day to American folks. The day of patriotism is characterized by the notoriously cliche red, white and blue color combination. Although many of us in these United States will attend barbecues or firework viewings dressed like a walking flag, I thought I'd put my own twist on the color scheme.
The July birthstone is the ruby, which is fitting for the holiday. This shade of red has the amazing capability to be dressed up or dressed down, making it a versatile favorite for women of all ages. I've compiled three looks featuring different ruby red pieces to demonstrate the many ways that the color can be styled.
Hopefully these suggestions can inspire your Independence Day get-up, if you're not one for a cheesy effect.

Alice + Olivia dress, Marc Jacobs crossbody bag, J Crew hat, Elie Saab necklace, Stella McCartney sandals.

Joie blouse, Citizens of Humanity jeans, Miu Miu shoulder bag and velvet loafers, Aurelie Bidermann earrings, J Crew bangles.

Joie tank top, Erdem pleated skirt, Mar y Sol straw tote, Oasis sandals, Kenneth Jay Lane earrings.

I would love to know what you're wearing for the 4th of July. Leave your outfit ideas in the comments section. Which of these three outfits do you like most?